torque specs for rods and main

Can any body help I did the rod to 39 and the main to 44 and I put it all together and the motor is knoking at high rpms only and I check all bearins and they are all fine what could it be

My FSM says 43lbs crank caps, 36lbs rod ends.

are you sure it's a knock and not a ping?

There are some early engines that have smaller rod bolts (8mm vs 9mm), you will want to make sure that you are using the torque for the rod bolt size that you have.

How did you determine that the bearings are fine? How did you check the bearing clearance?

If you have low oil pressure that could possibly cause it as well.

More specifically my FSM for 1987 FF Corolla.

We fully rebuilt it new clevite piston clevite rod and main bearins brand new lol pump decked blocked surfaced head new valves and valve seals. I rebuilt it beacause blocked was warped on top and kept blowing head gaskets plus rings were bad no rod knock or any thing and it idels fine it isn't untill u rev it to 2500 rpm that u hear it I also use nondetergent oil for alitle switched it out to see if it would stop but nothing bearings are good I checked them they have regular wear but nothing bad they told me to start whit no belts and check it that it could be power steering pump or torque converter might be bad but idk and I'm just reinvent to get it running good I also have a weber carb I have a vie of it hour after we first started it
Just look up on YouTube 4ac ae86 fresh built weber carb it got a gold methalic valve cover and a water bottle for fuel lol
U can't really tell here cuss the o2 sensor was unpluged

You are supposed to check the bearing clearances before bolting the motor together. That means measuring the journals on the crank, then measuring the bore in the rod bearing (with the rod bearing in installed in the rod and the bolts torqued down), and subtracting the distance which is the clearance. Most people don't have the tools to do this so they either use plastigauge (not the best option) or get a machinist / engine builder / mechanic to do it for them. If you just hope for the best and bolt it togther with out checking stuff like this can happen.

Have you checked the oil pressure? Insufficient oil pressure can cause rod nock as well as too much bearing clearance.

I checked them they were Wtf so I put std bearins

Quote :

I checked them they were Wtf so I put std bearins

What does that mean? If you checked them what were the clearances?

Std not Wtf than spell check

You are not making any sense. You are either not reading what I am writing or ignoring my questions. If you don't answer my questions I can not help you. Good luck getting it sorted out.

Spell check and Autocorrect have messed all his posts up lol. He's saying the bearings measured STD so he put STD back in it.

How did you measure the tolerances? Did you use plastigauge?

What do u mean by tolerances I Mediterranean the crank whit a micrometer to see if std

untamed_coupe wrote:

What do u mean by tolerances I Mediterranean the crank whit a micrometer to see if std

There is more to it than that. Have to measure the distance in between the bearing and the crankshaft...

http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html

If things are incorrect, you will be knocking for sure.

Oh ok yeah I was thinking of doing that but since every thing was own and it didn't have and there was nothing wrong whit the bottom end I dint do that but can any one tell me the clearence betwene conecting rods and crank cuss I wanted to check that whit a filler gauge

I just plasticated it and it came out to be .002 does that mean I need 20 over bearing

Can some one tell me please I need to get it running right now I'm on foot

You'll have to look up in a repair manual the tolerance ranges. The machine shop said my crank is towards the bottom of the 'good' range, and he ordered the bearings I need. But u will still have to measure everything when I put it together.

Are you saying you measured .002" gap? Something that is 20 over would be 0.020" oversized or 0.50mm oversized. Did you measure all of the main bearings and rod bearings? Any one of the rods being off could be your knock.

If you wind up being to close to out of spec, you might have to pick up bearings from Toyota because they come in more (and more precise) sizes.

From the spec i have .002" is to tight of a clearance for the main and rod journals. The spec i have says you can have .008" to .020" on the rods and .005" to .019" on the rods. On another note i think that using the plastigauge thing is worth a damn its not very accurate and really annoying to deal with paying a machine shop is your best bet to check all that stuff. If you cant afford it you probley shouldent have attempted to rebuild an engine.